Hollandaise sauce served on an English muffin. |
I made a reduction of crushed peppercorns and shallots in some vinegar, reducing the mixture by half. I kept this warm, but not too warm.
Next I clarified my own butter by slowly melting, then boiling a pound of butter to remove the milk solids and leave only pure butterfat. I kept this warm, but not too warm.
Then I began with my egg yolks, continuously whipping them with a little water over a double boiler until they were pale yellow and thick.
Next, the moment of truth and the trickiest part - slowly but continuously whip the warm clarified butter into the egg yolks, beginning only a drop at a time, and speeding up only when the emulsion begins to form.
This was all going quite well up to this point - the sauce was smooth, pale yellow, and thick, just like the descriptions. But suddenly, after adding another drop of butter, the sauce just completely split on me, as hollandaise often does. It happened so fast, and went from such a pretty looking sauce to a curdled mess.
Broken hollandaise sauce looks like a curdled, grainy mess. |
So what went wrong? Hollandaise sauce is very technical and there are so many variables.
Was the reduction too hot, too cold, reduced too much, or not reduced enough?
Was the clarified butter too hot, too cold, or not properly clarified and unstable?
Were the egg yolks whipped too little, too much, too quickly, or heated too much?
Was the butter added too quickly, or was too much butter added?
Was it the fact I did not have a stainless steel bowl and had to substitute glass?
Successful hollandaise sauce is thick, smooth, and velvety. |
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